Monday 28 July 2014

Cooks Creations!!!!

Cookbooks, are they dying as we use the internet to look at food sites?

Department stores were different when I was a child, they always carried different  books, now they seem to be diminishing. Even book stores seem to be few and far between.

I still have my first cookbook purchased from a department store in Perth, Western Australia when I was only about 8 years old.  'The World Book of Meat Dishes' by Nina Froud. It was first published in 1965 in Great Britain and again in 1970. A medium sized book of about 140 pages, I spent all my pocket money on it!

There are many  books I have collected over the years and often refer to them.
The oldest book in my collection is 'The American Woman's Cook Book' edited by Ruth Berolzheimer published by Consolidated Book Publishers, Chicago in 1944. 

After some research, I found two interesting stories. 

One on an old book written 600 years ago by chefs employed by King Richard II. 
Experts from Manchester University's John Rylands Library, who discovered the manuscript, have translated a handful of its 150 recipes, which are written in Middle English and date back to 1390.

The recipes include frumenty, a porridge-type dish made of bulghar wheat. Saffron and payn puff as well as a dish of boiled fruits wrapped in pastry.

The unusual cookbook, called the 'Forme of Cury', is believed to have contained dishes to feed servants and the royal family alike. It gives a fascinating insight into the delicacies of the time, including dishes of swan and peacock. After translating the recipes, historians wanted to try the dishes themselves. However, with no ingredient quantities or instructions, making the dishes proved tricky. John Hodgson, who looks after the library's manuscripts and archives, said: "One of the difficulties was that a lot of the recipes were very vague."

Another book, 'Apicius' dates back to the 9th century and is owned by The New York Academy of Medicine. It is the only surviving Roman cookbook, a 9th century copy of the original 2nd century cookery manual. Only two copies of this cookbook, formally entitled 'De Re Coquinaria' are known to exist. The other 9th century copy is believed to reside in the Vatican library, which is older by a few years. 

The Apicius is regarded by culinary historians and those involved with cookery with an almost religious adoration. The name 'Apicius' had long been associated with excessively refined love of food, from the habits of an early bearer of the name, Marcus Gavius Apisius a Roman gourmet and lover of refined luxury who lived sometime in the first century AD, during the reign of Tiberius. 

This 57-leaf document is written in Latin and contains recipes used by the Romans.

The book had been rebound in the 18th century by a French book dealer in mottled calf with gilt edges. A book dealer had removed the 9th century binding to separate the Apicius from a text by Hippocrates, the two had been bound together. ("The Hippocrates" now resides in a collection in Geneva, Switzerland, and is bound in the same 18th century mottled calf as formerly on the Academy's Apicius manuscript). Some years ago, the worn 18th century binding was removed, and the 1,200-year-old manuscript needed to be rebound. The Academy hired Deborah Evetts, the now-retired Head of Rare Book Conservation at the Pierpont Morgan Library, to restore the Apicius using a generous donation from the Culinary Trust. That donation was underwritten by The Brown-Forman Corporation and Kitchen Aid. Evetts cleaned and repaired the 9th century manuscripts parchment leaves, added new vellum end sheets for protection, and hand-sewed through original sewing holes. 

They say the cookbook is a fascinating document that offers a glimpse of life in ancient Rome. It contains many recipes and uses the secrets of ancient Roman and classical Greek cuisine. They ate the same green vegetables, meats, poultry and seafood as called for in these recipes and most of the same spices. The herbs used by Romans were Oregano, Sage, Coriander, Parsley, Rosemary and Thyme. 

The history of the Academy's copy is interesting. The Apicius passed through different hands over the centuries and eventually ended up at the Paris bookseller's shop. The cookbook was purchased by an English aristocrat and book collector. After his death, it was sold at auction and was purchased by Dr. Margaret Barclay Wilson, who eventually gave it to the Academy. 

This may have been cooked in the old days and under a different name but today I call it.....

Bernadette's Creamy Chicken Deluxe 

Ingredients
 4 large Chicken Maryland pieces with skin on
40 grams of butter
2 Green Apples peeled, cored and sliced
10 small pearl onions
2 Bay leaves
1 teaspoon of thyme
Salt and ground black pepper 
6 tablespoons of Brandy
120 mls chicken stock
120 mls of crème fraîche
Half a lemon, juiced
2 tablespoons of parsley, finely chopped

Method 

Melt half the butter in a saucepan over high heat, add apples and sauté, stirring carefully with a spoon until golden brown and tender. Transfer to a bowl.

Melt the remaining butter in the pan over medium heat and fry the onions, bay leaves and thyme for 2-3 minutes.

Add chicken, skin-side down and cook for 5 minutes until golden brown. Turn over and cook for another 5 minutes. Season generously with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. 

Add the brandy, turning the heat up high to burn off the alcohol, and cook for 3-5 minutes. 

Lower heat to medium, add chicken stock and when stock comes to boil, lower heat and simmer for 20-25 minutes, or until chicken is tender. 

Stir in crème fraîche and add apples, raising the heat again to allow some of the cooking liquid to evaporate and the sauce to thicken. 

Finally add lemon juice and parsley.

Serve with mashed potatoes.

Enjoy!






Wednesday 23 July 2014

Pavlova Gate!!!!



Who created the Pavlova?

Recently, I was making a Pavlova and it made me think about who created it.

The pavlova is a beautiful meringue dessert with fresh whipped cream and fresh fruit on top. 

Named after the Russian Ballerina, Anna Pavlova, who visited New Zealand and Australia in the 1920's. The meringue dessert resembles her beautiful white ballerina costume.

Both countries still claim it as theirs! The Oxford dictionary favours New Zealand's case. Stating the first recorded recipe for pavlova was in the 1927 book Davis Dainty Dishes, a publication by Davis Gelatine (NZ).

Keith Money, a biographer of Anna Pavlova, wrote that a hotel chef in Wellington created the dish when Pavlova visited the capital in 1926 on her world tour.

Professor Helen Leach, a culinary anthropologist at the University of Otago, New Zealand has compiled a library of cookbooks containing 667 pavlova recipes from more than 300 sources. Her book, The Pavlova Story: A Slice of New Zealand's Culinary History, states that the first Australian pavlova recipe was created in 1935, while an earlier version was penned in 1929 in the rural magazine NZ Dairy Exporter Annual.

The Australian website Australian Flavour gives an even earlier date of 1926 for its creation, suggesting that Home Cookery for New Zealand, by E Futter, contained a recipe for "Meringue with Fruit Filling". This recipe was similar to today's version of the dessert. It was never called 'Pavlova' though!

However, it has also been claimed that Bert Sachse created the dish at the Esplanade Hotel in Perth, Western Australia in 1935. In defense of his claim as inventor of the dish, a relative of Sachse's wrote to Leach suggesting that Sachse may have accidentally dated the recipe incorrectly.
Leach replied they could not find evidence "because it's just not showing up in the cookbooks until the 1940s in Australia".

Now to throw a spanner in the works. I have found some other information that may cause a stir! 

In 1720, a Swiss pastry-cook called Gasparini, practised his art in (Mehrinyghen) meringue, in a small town in the State of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha in Germany. Even the venerable Larousse perpetrates this myth, in complete disregard for the fact that confections made from sweetened, stiffly-beaten egg whites appear in cookbooks printed well before that date. The earliest I can find appears in the recipe collection of Lady Elinor Fettiplace, which is dated 1604, which she calls White Bisket Bread. 

To Make White Bisket Bread. (Original Recipe)

Take a pound & a half of sugar, & an handful of fine white flower [flour], the whites of twelve eggs, beaten verie finelie, and a little annisseed brused, temper all this together, till it be no thicker than pap, make coffins with paper, and put it into the oven, after the manchet [bread] is drawn.

Note: this is clearly what we would call ‘meringue’, but Lady Elinor does not use the name. 


The first use that I am aware of (and I stand willing to be corrected) is in the cookbook of François Massialot, the first chef of Louis XIV (1638 - 1715). His book was published in 1692, and contained a chapter on “Meringues and Macaroons”.

For something different try this beautiful Pavlova roll.......


Peach and Passionfruit Pavlova Roll

Ingredients 

Three quarters of a cup caster sugar 
4 egg whites 
Half a cup flaked almonds
300ml thickened cream 
1 tablespoon of icing sugar
400g tub of sliced peaches in juice, drained, chopped 
2 passionfruit, halved 
Icing sugar to serve 




Method
 
Preheat oven to 180°C/160°C fan-forced. Grease a 25cm x 30cm Swiss roll pan. Line with baking paper, allowing a 2cm overhang on all sides. Place a second sheet of baking paper on a flat surface. Sprinkle with 1 tablespoon caster sugar.

Using an electric mixer, beat egg whites until stiff peaks form. Add remaining caster sugar. Beat for 10 minutes or until sugar has dissolved. Spread mixture over prepared pan. Smooth top. Sprinkle with almonds. Bake for 10 minutes or until top just starts to brown.

Meanwhile, using an electric mixer, beat cream and icing sugar until stiff peaks form. Pat peaches dry with paper towel.

Turn meringue onto prepared baking paper. Remove lining paper. Cool for 30 minutes. Spread with cream mixture. Top with peaches and passionfruit pulp. Roll up meringue from one long end to enclose filling. Place on a plate and refrigerate for 1 hour. 

Serve dusted with icing sugar.

Enjoy!!!